So I checked with Erin Yakim, manager at Hard Rock Climbing Services in Fayetteville, W.Va. (designated a top-10-coolest small town and gateway to the New River Gorge), and learned she had an afternoon opening the same weekend that Class VI River Runners would offer a Lower New River Gorge rafting package!

My sister took the train from D.C. to join me in Richmond. A 6:30 a.m. departure on Saturday morning got us to Fayetteville in time to have brunch at the Cathedral Café across the street from Hard Rock. I had climbed under Erin’s coaching before—she’s encouraging and engaging, with a laugh that will have you chuckling like Giggle Belly. She drove us to a spot underneath the New River bridge, and we were climbing by 1:30.

The rain started the minute we got off the rock and was still pouring two beers later, so the campground was a mud pit (that’s why I prefer the woods). We upgraded our accommodations to a cabin—no electricity, but roof and floor—where I whipped up a bodacious basil-pesto pasta with sundried tomatoes and chicken.

Next morning, we drove about a mile down the road to Class VI. These guys know what they’re doing. The place felt like an upscale ski resort, with comfortable lodging, restaurant and pub. After check-in at the store, we suited up with PFDs, helmets and paddles, and off we went. Because we were just two, not a group, we got placed with other pairs in Squirrel’s raft. He’s the head raft guide, a bear of a man full of larger-than-life stories—great fun and extremely safety-conscious. The river was way up due to the previous week’s rain, and we had a blast. The air was a bit chilly, with wind gusting up the gorge, but the water was warm and, yes, we took a spectacular swim on Second Enders, one of the rapids on the lower New. After a rocking bus ride up from the river—beer for the taking—we settled down for dinner at Smokey’s on the Gorge (part of our package). Their succulent buffet more than rivaled my backpack cooking. Delicious!