the beat

In which we explore unfamiliar territory.

by Christine Ennulat

9/8/09 5:57 PM

Do you like this?

In the October issue’s food feature, we finish the meal with the most beautiful apple tart. It's from a recipe provided by photo stylist Bill Sorrell, who says it’s from his “mom’s old family recipe …, so the directions may be a bit wishy-washy.” Often the best kind! Excited, I began to read—and came to a stumbling halt when I saw that the crust called for a pound of lard.

     “Lard? Lard in a pie crust?” thought I—this was a new one on me. Then: “Where does one get lard, anyway?”

      That was on a Thursday a couple weeks ago. The following Saturday, at Richmond’s South of the James Farmers’ Market, I saw the phrase “leaf lard” down low on the whiteboard listing wares on offer by my friends at the Faith Farm booth, Paul and Brenda Lawler, who raise grass-fed (and happy, wandering) cows, pigs and chickens on their Greenville farm.

     “Leaf lard? What the heck is leaf lard?”

     “Ohh,” said Brenda, widening her eyes, “it’s primo for piecrusts. They call it liquid gold.”

     “All righty then. And you have some?”

     Paul stepped into their trailer and grabbed a 2-pound package from one of their freezers. It looked like a few gobby pinky-white cylinders stuck together.

     “That’s—lovely,” I said. “Why do they call it leaf lard?”

     “I don’t know,” said Paul. “It’s from around the kidneys of the pig.”

     “You have to render it,” said Brenda.

     “Render it?”

     “I do it overnight in a crock pot.”

     Ah. You melt it. Thus armed with leaf lard, I went home and set it in my refrigerator to thaw. And I began my research.

to be continued …

—Christine Ennulat

,

In which we explore unfamiliar territory.

by Christine Ennulat

9/8/09 5:57 PM

Latest Comments

  • Re. Lard for baking

    Ms. Phillips -- Here's what Bill Sorrell, source of the tart recipe, told me when I first asked: "Lard - and finding it in Richmond...can be an undertaking of sorts. Usually Ukrop's has it, in the same area as the Smithfield hams, etc., but it can be hit or miss. Sometimes Kroger has it, but I can't remember what section they keep it in, and usually Food Lion always has it, but they sell it in 4 lb tubs. I just got some at Ukrop's Brook Run store - standard 1 lb box."
    Good luck!
    ce

    Posted by November 18, 2009 12:01:44

  • LARD FOR BAKING

    I AM LOOKING AT AN OLD RECIPE FOR DELICIOUS ROLLS THAT WAS SERVED AT OUR CHURCH DINNERS --IT CALLS FOR LARD AND YEAST CAKE...MY GRANDMOTHER USED TO GET LARD IN A BLUE AND WHITE PACKAGE ON THE GROCER SHELVES AND YEAST CAKE WAS IN THE DAIRY CASE...I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF ANYONE KNOWS WHERE I CAN PURCHASE YEAST CAKES AND LARD AT ANY STORE IN RICHMOND OR SURROUNDING AREAS....I WANT TO MAKE THESE ROLLS FOR THANKSGIVING AND WANT TO USE INGREDIENTS AS CALLED FOR IN THE RECIPE...nEED HELP FINDING AT ANY STORE...THANX.

    Posted by BRENDA PHILLIPS November 18, 2009 09:14:42

  • lard

    I imagine our pie-making ancestors from at least our great grandparents on back would think it odd that we'd use anything but lard in a pie crust. My take on food and health is that it's best that ingredients used are in a relatively unprocessed state, without added chemicals/atificial ingredients and that it be eaten in moderation. Add to that that eating fresh, in season and local when possible, and you have a pretty good recipe, I think. Pie crusts are not my forte, but I've a mind to try one with lard next time, if I can find some that's not processed.

    Posted by Jim B. November 12, 2009 11:36:30

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