the beat

In which Tricia Pearsall visits her favorite Virginia state park.

by Tricia Pearsall

6/1/10 3:01 PM

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Tricia Pearsall

They say the third time's the charm. That was certainly the case for our backpacking trip to False Cape State Park, my very, very, very favorite Virginia state park. It’s remote, located along a narrow spit of land between the Atlantic Ocean and Back Bay, south of Back Bay National Wildlife Refuge down to the North Carolina State line. Its landscape is "to die for"—wide white sand beaches, barrier dunes, inland freshwater ponds, yaupon, live oak, Spanish moss, loblolly and longleaf pines mixed with expansive grass marshes and swamps, like home. (I’m from the swamps of southeastern N.C.) It’s a Virginia legacy of resilience and community spirit: A church steeple and a cemetery mark the site of the former 19th-century community of Wash Woods, made up of shipwreck survivors, hunters, fishermen and members of the life-saving crew. It’s solitude, legends and more wildlife than one can hope to digest in fewer than 10 visits, from feral pigs, coyotes and deer to egrets, pelicans, horseshoe crabs, raccoons, foxes and all manner of waterfowl.

False Cape was so named because its offshore configuration is similar to that of Cape Henry, some 20 miles north at the mouth of the Chesapeake. Ships frequently made the fatal mistake and ran aground, wrecking on the sandy shoals. I made campsite reservations the first time for the weekend of December 19, to celebrate my upcoming birthday. But that was the season’s first big snowstorm! I then made them again for New Year's—second big snowstorm! So I decided to wait until the first weekend in March, and the weather was gorgeous, cool wind 15-20mph from the north, but sunshine. We had the entire park to ourselves except for a weekend program of "Wild Women" at the Wash Woods Environmental Center some 5 miles from our campsite. (Be sure to check out the Environmental Center offerings. The center has an extensive curriculum of weekend programs and is located in one of the old upscale hunting clubs.)

For my husband and me, this hike was a trip down memory lane. During the mid-’60s, before this 4,300-acre park was established, we use to hike, or drive a Jeep, down the beach along with numerous dune buggies. We would camp on the beach or, if a storm hit, seek shelter in a dilapidated life-saving (Coast Guard) station or hunting lodge. It was magic. Everyone helped everyone else. One time, we got stuck trying to take the Jeep up Penny’s Hill. A guy not only helped us get our Jeep unstuck, but also gave us a ride in his better-suited buggy. There was camaraderie among beach strangers. We would share food and stories with other campers and the locals, and travel all the way to Duck, N.C. In North Carolina, the beach is now developed—mega mansions—almost all the way to the state line. In Virginia, the land is preserved. It’s False Cape State Park. Our state treasure.

In which Tricia Pearsall visits her favorite Virginia state park.

by Tricia Pearsall

6/1/10 3:01 PM

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