We listened to the bagpipers while they played several tunes, then went upstairs where the crowd was celebrating. Dawn followed the two bagpipers up the stairs and snuck over to me by the bar. "I always wondered about the rumor that Scotsmen didn't wear anything under their kilts,” she said. “So I bent down to take a peek."

I burst out in laughter. "Well?"

"The rumor's true."

We hung around the Old Town area until it got dark and the wreath-adorned lamps lit up with Christmas lights and bright stars dangled from branches jutting out over the streets. Gazing down the street, it seemed like we had stepped out of real life and into a scene from It’s a Wonderful Life. Brightly colored buildings, shoppers with metallic gift bags, music flowing from shops, leaves whirling on the breeze and everyone bundled up. It made us sorry we had to leave.

But there is more of Virginia to explore, more adventures to embark upon, and, I hope, more surprises to encounter. And if they are only half as lovely as those we discovered in Fredericksburg, the trip will be well worth it.

NOTE: Those interested in taking walking tours of Fredericksburg should go to the Fredericksburg Visitor Center (706 Caroline Street, 1-800-678-4748). The Visitor Center provides maps for the self-guided tours, but you can also choose to take a one-hour guided tour that winds through town and finishes at the Fredericksburg Area Museum, whose admission is included with the tour fare. Another option is a 75-minute trolley tour of the historic district. Call 540-898-0737 for more information.