the beat

Beginning with basics

by Christine Ennulat

6/9/09 6:19 PM

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Tina Ennulat

READY!

Years ago, as I was just beginning to learn my way around the kitchen, one of my early staples was a recipe unglamorously called, “Basic Orzo,” from The Parenting Cookbook, by Kathy Gunst. I haven’t looked at the recipe in years, because it is indeed basic. But this morning I pulled the book off the shelf, curious about the proportions, because the variation I make now has evolved a bit from the original. I see that “Basic Orzo” calls for a cup of orzo, a tablespoon “good-quality” olive oil or butter, salt and fresh-ground pepper, a tablespoon of “finely chopped fresh rosemary or one teaspoon dried (optional)”—and here I wish I could insert sound effects, in particular the sound of a record player needle screeching across vinyl: Optional??? Ai yi yi!

Rosemary is the heart of the matter. And, for grins, a few sprigs of thyme, because I have some growing in my garden as well, and it smells pretty. Don’t even bother with the dried version of either, unless you have no choice. Nor should you stint on the olive oil—go for quality. It’s worth it, and you’ll know exactly how much so when you slosh some into just-drained, steaming hot pasta. There is nothing quite like the scent of heated olive oil, one of my favorite things.

You know what else smells good?

Yep, bacon—in this case, thick-sliced pepper bacon, but I usually try to find applewood-smoked, which releases some kind of almost chocolate-y thing into the air when it cooks (I tell you, if I could bottle that stuff …). I chop the bacon before cooking rather than crumbling afterward, because I live among bacon thieves, and the smaller pieces diminish the likelihood of entire slices wandering off. Pre-slicing also results in more consistently crisp bits, whereas cooking and then crumbling yields a mix of crisp and chewy bits. Up to the cook.

The only other ingredient in my orzo was one of those happy accidents: chicken-apple sausage, available in higher-end supermarkets. I’ve seen three or four different brands, and they all work fine. I dice them and brown them in a couple tablespoons of the bacon grease. (Vegetarian option: Instead of the meats, cube some butternut squash and roast it with sea salt, fresh-cracked pepper and some drizzles of olive oil.)

It’s such a simple entree, and yet it makes people swoon. My kids call it “Mom’s tasty pasta,” which is so corny it makes me cringe even as it gives me little shiver of pleasure. I rather like my more dignified name for it.

Beginning with basics

by Christine Ennulat

6/9/09 6:19 PM

Latest Comments

  • I'll be trying this

    I always try to make one dish over the weekend that I think will hold up over the course of the week (for lunches, etc). This weekend I'll be making this orzo. If it's as good as I expect it will be, there may be none left for lunch.

    Posted by -Ship September 14, 2009 18:25:43

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