We arrived in the city a little before 11, and since Dawn is “she of the tiny bladder,” we stopped at the Virginia Living offices to use the facilities. I’d been hoping to “pop in” during the walk, but this spared the staff from putting up with me after I’d built up a good layer of road grime and sweat. My plan was to catch a taxi back to the car after our long hike, but the editor, Richard Ernsberger, said to give him a call and he’d haul us back. I should have asked him for a raise while he was in such a good mood. Oh well.

Finally, at noon, we were ready to walk. We started out at the Chimborazo Medical Museum on the eastern edge of Richmond and headed west on Broad Street. From atop Church Hill, we could see past Shockoe Bottom to the skyscrapers jutting up from the heart of the city. It felt good to start out downhill, but the moment was bittersweet since we could see the steep climb awaiting us on the other side.

Eight blocks into our walk, we came upon St. John’s Church, where Patrick Henry delivered his “Treason” speech to the Virginia Convention in 1775. Across the street, in Patrick Henry Park, stood an eight-foot-tall, translucent monument with his famous quotation etched into it: “Give me liberty or give me death.” Two hundred thirty-four years later, those words still were powerful enough to raise goosebumps on my arms and stir my spirit. “Come on,” I said to my companions, “let’s get a move-on.” They were likewise buoyed, but we only marched two more blocks before coming upon the Patrick Henry Pub and Grille. After visiting the park, how could we pass up a restaurant with a name like that?

Inside, the décor was 20th-century hole-in-the-wall, with dim lighting and movie posters on the walls. Much of the space was taken up by a nicked bar, behind which was a sign reading, “Give me Liberty or Give me Beer.” Under normal circumstances, those words would stir my spirit and raise goosebumps on my gullet. But we had miles to go and imbibed only water. We all ordered the special (salmon sandwich and side salad) and were glad we’d stopped in. The sandwiches were delicious and just filling enough to give us energy without sitting heavily in our stomachs.