The tailgate parties of the Montpelier Hunt Races are legendary, such a hallmark of the event that there’s even a contest around them, named for Montpelier chatelaine Dolley Madison herself. And many of them are worthy of the name, whether they’re the catered feasts offered under the sponsors’ tents, a grill sending up heavenly aromas from behind a pickup truck, a table laden with fruit trays and chicken tenders, or an elegant repast served in crystal and antique china amid floral centerpieces. Champagne chills in buckets, coolers are filled with beer, thermoses emit steam, bottles full of golden spirits catch the late-afternoon light.
By the sixth race, perhaps it’s well-lubricated camaraderie that has a circle of men, lounging in soccer-mom chairs, singing, “Duke, duke, duke, duke of Earl, Earl, Earl, duke of Earl, Earl, Earl …” at the mention of a horse so named (he comes in fourth). Or it could simply be the jollity that infuses the event—it seems no one is here who is not happy to be here. Especially when they hear over the PA, “The score is final: Virginia escapes with a one-point victory.”
Here, an easily transportable feast, to be laid out as elegantly or as humbly as you please. Enjoy. And mind those gates and gaps.
Romaine spears with Brittany dip
1 head romaine lettuce
Pull the innermost leaves of a head of Romaine, wash and dry well (many of the outer leaves can be used, as well).
For the dressing:
1 large clove garlic
1 shallot
1 or 2 anchovies
1 egg yolk
1 teaspoon dry mustard
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1⁄2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1⁄4 cup red wine vinegar
1 cup olive oil
In a food processor, pulse all ingredients except the olive oil and romaine spears until frothy. With the machine still running, slowly add the olive oil.
Candied walnuts
1 cup oil
1 cup walnuts
1 cup sugar
1⁄2 teaspoon cumin
1⁄2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1⁄2 teaspoon salt
For one cup of walnuts, boil the nuts in water for two minutes. Drain and dry them. Heat vegetable oil to 350 degrees in a deep saucepan. Fry the nuts until crisp, about 1 1⁄2 to 2 minutes. Drain on paper towels, then roll in a mixture of the sugar, cumin, cayenne and salt. Let dry.
Serve romaine spears with dressing, candied walnuts and pear slices.
Herb-Infused Olive oil
2 cups olive oil
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