The southern end of the Northern Neck—White Stone, Irvington and Kilmarnock—has become a haven for retirees, who like the water and the lifestyle, which one describes as “small-town America at its very best.”

by Richard Ernsberger Jr.

8/24/10 7:00 AM

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The setting: the White Stone Wine and Cheese shop, White Stone, Virginia. Inside, at 4:30 on a Thursday afternoon, a half-dozen locals, mostly casually-dressed retired men, are taking advantage of owner Bruce Watson’s hospitality. Nearly every week, Watson, a jaunty native Californian, hosts a wine-tasting in his little establishment—located near the one traffic light in the one-square-mile town—treating his friends to a sampling of U.S. and international wine in the couple of hours before he must retreat to his kitchen, morph from merchant to chef and turn his retail store into a bistro. Duck and bouillabaisse (made from scratch every night) are his specialties. Watson, a former executive with a health care company, says he “once chased a lady to French Canada and ended up going to culinary school.”

On this evening, a retired architect, a retired contractor, a retired DuPont executive, a retired John Deere executive, a retired Chrysler employee, an art gallery owner and an ophthalmologist (still working), among others, are hunkered around a few corner tables, trading gossip and laughs between sips of a 2005 Napa Cab, a 2005 Côtes du Rhône and a 2004 Grenache Noir from California, to name a few of the eight bottles Watson has happily plunked on his tables. Ron Mihills, the former DuPont exec, does some quick math—eight wines, offered weekly—and says, “There aren’t many places in the world where you can taste about 400 wines a year.”

True, and there aren’t many places with quite the vibe of the Northern Neck—and more specifically the little trio of towns, White Stone, Irvington and Kilmarnock, which together have attracted a lot of well-to-do former businessmen and their wives to Lancaster County, and its Chesapeake Bay lifestyle. Lancaster is said to be one of the demographically oldest counties in Virginia, and it’s also one of the wealthiest. The three towns are adjacent to one another—a little triangular community linked by routes 200 and 3. Kilmarnock (population 1,250) is the commercial hub; Irvington (population 700), where the Tides Inn can be found, is a tiny upscale enclave; and White Stone (population 350) is the southern gateway to the Northern Neck.

Until very recently, the area was known for its farmland and easy-going watermen, so it’s hard to imagine that this pocket of old Virginia was a rollicking place in the 19th and early 20th centuries, during the steamship era. Between 1813 and 1930s, a dozen or so steamships plied the coastal waterways. Some would leave Baltimore and move down the bay to Norfolk, then come up the Rappahannock River and dock at Irvington and other towns. In those days, the area teemed with wharves, fishing villages and canneries. “Steamboats were our lifeline—our social and economic connection to the world,” says Anne Long McClintock, a board member of the five-year-old Steamboat Era Museum in Irvington. Her grandfather was the captain of the steamship Potomac, whose old pilothouse sits on the museum lawn. “Everything that people here wanted and bought came by steamboat. We got Baltimore newspapers and knew more about Baltimore than Richmond.”

The southern end of the Northern Neck—White Stone, Irvington and Kilmarnock—has become a haven for retirees, who like the water and the lifestyle, which one describes as “small-town America at its very best.”

by Richard Ernsberger Jr.

8/24/10 7:00 AM

Latest Comments

  • Northern Neck culture and it's future

    I have lived here since 2005. My wife grew up here and she has deep family roots in the Northern Neck. I consider myself a "brought here". ;) This article is great at talking about the Northern Neck's appeal to retired people and summer vacationers.

    My wife and I don't fit either of those categories (and there are a good number of families like us in the Northern Neck with young children).. We are in our early 40s and have a preschool age son. My wife owns a coffee shop in the Lancaster Court House area.

    I have found that the employment issues of the locals (those that have lived here their whole lives), who have been hurt by this economic recession, is a real underlying problem here. Alot of them are suffering due to a major slowdown in construction of second homes and slowdown other jobs available. Also there are a limited number of jobs, and the local workforce can't ALL work in these retail establishments and the limited pool of other jobs. Also a large number of these retail businesses derive a majority of their revenue in the summer months and employee a small number of people in the workforce.

    From November to March, must of these retail businesses are running with a skeleton group of employees... The winter months are very hard for people to retain a job or even find a new job in Lancaster county.

    I personally would like to see a greater focus by local government on economic development and diversification (light manufacturing, high tech, etc...). Tourism money coming to the Northern Neck is not 12 months a year.

    What opportunities exist locally for the kids graduating from High School in Lancaster County? Unless they go to college, their options are limited by our focus purely on tourism type retail businesses.

    The article is great, but the voices and challenges of people raising families and educating their kids don't get enough attention from the local media. However, rosy the picture is presented in this article, the whole truth is harder for people to accept and help change.

    These issues are all below the surface and will not go away without a broader focus on the citizens of Lancaster County. Check the unemployment rate in November, it is very high in Lancaster County historically.

    Posted by Richard Pleasants August 26, 2010 13:35:20

  • Raised not born

    Born and raised, your comment is idiotic. Time moves on, get over it.

    The "come here" snobbery is small-minded and has got to go. Those "come heres" bring vitality and prosperity (and pay taxes). They have more right to be there than you do.

    Posted by August 26, 2010 09:15:47

  • Come-heres

    My grandmother and grandfather moved here in the 30s from Richmond as summer-folk. After they arrived, they were involved in the restoration of Christ Church, the raising of Grace Church,My grandmother wrote several "ditties" about Irvington, including "To Irvington With Love." She died at 104, a come-here. Most come-heres are like that. Welcome!

    Posted by Grid Michal August 26, 2010 07:43:54

  • Come Heres

    The attitude of the Born and Raised commenter is why it is hard for some to ever really feel at home there. I lived there for 20+ years was married to a local and still would be called a "come here". It is a beautiful place to raise children..but growth happens and that is a good thing..welcome it!

    Posted by August 25, 2010 21:00:28

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