What do you get when you mix Grand Cru bubbly, a five-course meal from the chef at 1 North Belmont, and three couples in a spirited mood? An elegant dinner party with plenty of fizz. Photography by Patricia Lyons | Food styling by Frits and Andrea Huntjens

by Jason Tesauro

11/9/09 1:56 PM

Do you like this?

Think of grower champagne this way: You need a tomato. [Do you] head for some mega-retailer and buy an industrial hothouse tomato grown thousands of miles away and sprayed within an inch of its life, or do you visit your local farmers’ market and buy an organic heirloom tomato from the farmer who grew it himself on the same farm that his father, grandfather and great-grandfather grew their tomatoes?

What’s the biggest misconception Americans have about champagne?

That it’s expensive and for special occasions only. Most great champagnes, when compared to the same-quality wines from the other classic regions, are a screaming bargain. You can drink great champagne for a fraction of the price of great Burgundy or Bordeaux. And champagne does not need an event to make it special … it makes every event special.

As it turns out, grower champagnes are typically 10 to 20 percent less expensive than large house champagnes thanks to fewer hands in the supply chain taking a cut. RVWC buys these wines from the producers and sells them directly to retailers and restaurants, unlike co-ops that sell to négociants who deal with huge import firms that turn to local distributors before the wine ever reaches a restaurant or retailer.

Label Able

Common terms for navigating Champagne

Brut = dry.

Extra Dry = slightly less dry than Brut.

Demi-sec = half-dry.

Cuvée = a blended batch of wines.

Doux/Dolce = sweet.

Mousse = head of bubbles.

NV = non-vintage, blended from multiple vintages, not one particular year. Allows producers to maintain consistent style while saving you beaucoup dollars—vintage quality comes at a premium.

Blanc de Blancs = made from Chardonnay grapes. According to Vincent Gasnier, Blanc de Blancs are “creamier, more feminine in style, great with seafood.”

Blanc de Noirs = made from black grapes, typically Pinot Noir. “A much firmer style, complex, most austere, more refreshing,” Gasnier says.

Bjornsen adds, “Champagne from Pinot Noir can be quite aggressive; it’s often surprising how well it does with filet mignon and pork. If there is not a lot of fat, champagnes do very, very well.”

Menu and Pairing Notes

Amuse Bouche

American Caviar with Melba Toast Points

Chapuy Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Grand Cru NV

Straw tones with a yeasty nose. Clean and flinty with notes of pear and lemon. In Oger, near the geographic center of Champagne, Father makes it and the daughter sells it, but it’s only available in two or three U.S. states.

What do you get when you mix Grand Cru bubbly, a five-course meal from the chef at 1 North Belmont, and three couples in a spirited mood? An elegant dinner party with plenty of fizz. Photography by Patricia Lyons | Food styling by Frits and Andrea Huntjens

by Jason Tesauro

11/9/09 1:56 PM

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