Dine out

Helen’s, Edo’s Squid, Avalon, Kuba Kuba: Lucky residents of central Richmond certainly don’t go begging for great food. That’s especially true in the Fan district. A genuine urban oasis, this 85-block enclave of tree-lined streets and renovated Victorian, Queen Anne and Italianate homes complete with porch rockers, flower gardens and the convenience of neighborhood shops (new and vintage clothing, books, wine) is usually my first stop in the downtown area. On a few trips over a lazy Virginia summer, I sampled the fare at a trio of new (or new to me!) eateries. From contemporary fine dining to a hidden lunchtime hot spot, they’ve all moved to the top of my Richmond A-list.

Aromatherapy: Verbena

     I discovered Verbena, which opened this past spring, after browsing through my favorite vintage boutique, conveniently located right around the corner. On a sunny summer evening, the restaurant’s Floyd Avenue façade winked at me with its cottage-like herb and flower garden and enormous windows promising an equally bright interior. At 5:15, I was surprised to find many occupied tables in the airy main dining room. I slid into a black booth, unfolded a crisp white napkin and surveyed the scene. The formal elegance of Verbena is softened by touches like original blonde wood floors, single flowers in glass vases and a high, pressed-tin ceiling painted new-penny copper. A central staircase leads up to the more casual V Lounge, with its exposed brick, black and copper bar and handful of tables for two.

     I was eager to taste the cuisine served up by chef Todd Richardson and sous chef Noah Sandoval. Both are well known in the surprisingly small and supportive (so they tell me) restaurant community of Richmond. The pair collaborated in the kitchens of Fan favorites Helen’s and the Dogwood Grille. Richardson also cooked alongside Manny Mendez at his popular Fan diner Kuba Kuba.

     I ordered a glass of boldly aromatic Gewürztraminer from Alsace (“The Furst”) from Verbena’s carefully crafted wine list. It paired perfectly with my first appetizer: 3 ounces of pan-seared foie gras, slices of charred red onion, a few leaves of arugula in a white balsamic dressing and a spoonful of peach ice on top. I’m not usually a foie gras person, but the contrast of fatty and fresh, charred and fruity in this dish could make anyone a convert. A beautifully executed kabob of grilled shrimp came next. Sliced tomato rinds tossed in horseradish dressing gave this simple dish an elegant zing.