Dine out

Beyond the Tavern

Within earshot of fife and drum, Christina Ball samples the fare at two of Williamsburg's most popular eateries. "Oh, for a bowl of fat canary, rich Palermo, sparkling sherry..."

7/15/10 10:03 AM

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Tyler Darden

With its picket-fenced gardens, lantern-lit paths, horse-and-buggy rides and costumed interpreters who stay in character despite attempts to shake them back to the 21st century, Colonial Williamsburg is one of the most delightful cultural experiences in the history-rich state of Virginia. Its simple, small-village pleasures—including those of the table—offer a welcome respite from the crowds and chaos of big-thrill theme parks such as Busch Gardens and Kings Dominion. Like many visitors over the years, I’ve happily stepped back in time to get a taste of colonial cuisine at Williamsburg’s fine historic taverns: peanut “soupe” and game “pye” at The King’s Arms, flounder Chesapeake and clam stew at Christiana Campbell’s, apple cider punch and ale-potted roast at Shields. But, on a recent trip to the historic triangle at the peak of spring, my craving for something significantly more modern was completely satisfied by a duo of new eateries—both within earshot of fifes and drums.

Beyond the Tavern

THE CHEESE SHOP and FAT CANARY

I vividly remembered The Cheese Shop from my previous visit to Williamsburg in 2002. Back then, it was practically the only place to get Camembert, prosciutto and perfectly crusty fresh bread in the charming commercial district known as Merchants Square. Located on the historic area’s main thoroughfare, Duke of Gloucester Street, directly across from the town’s first and still notable fine dining restaurant, The Trellis, this 37-year-old gourmet emporium is simply an ideal spot for breakfast, lunch or anytime picnic provisions. On the late Saturday morning of my visit, the front patio was packed with students, locals and tourists sipping coffee, nibbling on sandwiches and pastries and reading newspapers, maps and guide books.

Any specialty food store is as good as a museum to me. Once inside the recently revamped and expanded shop, I lingered longingly over the merchandise beautifully displayed on shelves and tables—chocolates, oils and vinegars, dried fruits and nuts, a dazzling array of Italian products, a global gathering of cookies and crackers and, just downstairs, a 4,000-bottle retail wine cellar. My friend Lisa and I would buy a baguette, samples of several cheeses, a slender salami and some dried pears and enjoy a snack outside before touring the Colonial gardens in full spring splendor.

Owned and operated by the Power family, The Cheese Shop is a perfect example of how national and family histories converge in the Colonial area. It was at the cheese counter, appropriately enough, where I met the first member of the powerhouse Power family—general manager Cathy Power Pattisall. Despite the crowds buzzing about the shop, she was clearly capable of simultaneously overseeing the scene while also making sure individual shoppers got all of their questions answered. Cathy’s sister, Mary Ellen Jr., works with her at The Cheese Shop, while their brother, executive chef Thomas Power Jr., dazzles diners at his restaurant, Fat Canary, which shares 9,000 square feet of culinary showcase space with the shop and wine cellar.