The significance of this despacho ceremony won’t sink in until I get home and finally study the pre-trip literature. Our patient and helpful Quechua-speaking camp assistants, José, Silberio and Alberto, are normally outfitted in Texas cowboy garb, but now, as we celebrate their connection to the mountain spirits, they are festooned like priests, wearing yellow wool, bolero-style jackets embroidered with white buttons, bugle beads, and turquoise and pink threads, and each is crowned with a heavily beaded, hand-knit Andean hat. Nearing the end of our journey, my husband, Jack, and I have been physically challenged by this mountain’s altitude, yet we are in total awe of its stark, arduous beauty while trying to comprehend the bond between mountain and the Inca descendants living in its shadow.
José splashes an offering of Pisco—a Peruvian brandy—in the direction of the mountain, then layers red and white carnation petals in a circle atop a hand-woven cloth, followed by our coca leaves (kintus). He raises his voice in spiritual chatter, and then his colleagues chime in with syncopated incantations. With each, another offering layer is added to the mound—first what looks like prayers wrapped in pink paper, then earth treasures (seeds, quinoa, potatoes, corn and nuts) followed by small plastic figures like Cracker Jack prizes, sweet candies (for healing), confetti, rice, sea shells, glitter (for gold), cotton (for the clouds that surround the mountain and bring rain), condor feathers and so on. The rite encourages healing, oneness and balance, as translated by our guide, Ricardo. José ties the mound into a bundle, soaks it with the rest of the bottle of Pisco, places it at the base of an overhanging rock and sets it afire. Sun down, they shoo us in the direction of camp, so as not to interfere with the smoke carrying the prayers to Ausangate.
When an almost-three-week window appeared on my husband’s calendar, I optioned a vacation gift given a few wedding anniversaries back. I started looking for a Peru trek (for me) combined with museum and cultural exploration (for him). Thinking Inca Trail—Machu Picchu—I Web-searched local outfitters, discovering Andes Adventures under EcoAndes Travel, led by its affable president, Hugo Torres. He convinced me that the more remote Ausangate trek was preferable to the people-packed Inca Trail, plus it offered transport and tours in Cusco, down the Sacred Valley via Ollantaytambo to Machu Picchu. The price and the time were right. I booked.
Latest Comments
Fabulous Trip!
Posted by Cynthia King January 18, 2010 19:54:26
Applause!
Posted by V. Tyack January 13, 2010 19:41:11
Magic article and photography !
Posted by R. Intrevado December 03, 2009 21:24:22